![]() This looks very similar with 10K resistors, so be careful. Next, solder RT, a 30K resistor (located close to RD+ and RD-). The colored rings should read Yellow-Violet-Black. These are two 47 ohm resistors located next to R7. This is a pullup resistor for the USB programmer.Īlso solder RD+ and RD. The colored rings should read Brown-Green-Red. It’s useful if you need to increase the switching regulator’s output current in the future. Note that there are two additional PCB holes below Rsc. So bend one leg 180 degrees down, insert to the PCB holes, and solder it. This is a current limiting resistor for the switching regulator. The other 1 ohm resistor goes to Rsc, located on the left of IC1. Resistors are non-polar, so you can insert them either way. The colored rings on the resistors should read Brown-Black-Gold. In the kit you will find a strip of two 1 ohm resistors. It is located right below D4 that you just soldered. Note that D5 (vertical orientation, also marked 1N4148) is currently unused. Similar to before: be careful with the polarity of diodes. The colored rings on the resistor should read Brown-Black-Brown).įollow the same method to solder D2 (a 1N5819 Schottky diode, be sure to read the label), and D3 (a smaller, 1N4148 diode), and finally D4 ( another 1N4001 diode 100 ohm resistor, located at the top of the PCB). ( Update: in recent kits D4 is replaced by a 100 ohm resistor to provide better LCD contrast. Next, use a diagonal cutter to clip leads just above the end of the solder joints. Once it’s in place, proceed to solder the other joint. While not necessary, if you want the component to lie close to the PCB, you can solder one leg first, then keep the soldering iron on the joint and push or pull the component towards the PCB. On the back of the PCB, bend the legs to the side, so that you can flip the PCB and the diode will stay in place. Again, when in doubt, click on the images to get a full-resolution view. This stripe should match the silkscreen on the PCB. Before inserting it to the PCB, identify the end with a white stripe (the negative leg). Note that diodes have polarity, allowing current to flow only in one direction. Use pliers to gently bend the two legs to 90 degrees. Some packages are shipped with 1N4004 diode instead. It looks similar to D2, so be sure to read the label on the diode. Now we will build the power supply and USB programmer section, the components of which are all located at the left side of the PCB.įirst solder D1, a 1N4001 diode. This notch should match up with the silkscreen on the PCB. You can tape them to the PCB to avoid them falling out during soldering.Įvery socket has a small notch (see the picture on the left) to help identify the orientation. Be careful when inserting the IC sockets: make sure all legs go into the PCB holes correctly. Insert and solder all IC sockets (from the IC bag). Remember: all images are ‘clickable’, to help you check full-resolution details. (Optional: use a fume extractor to help remove solder fumes). To begin, place the PCB onto a a vise, and turn on the soldering iron. Click the images to see them in full resolution. To give you a heads up, here are two high resolution images of the assembled board (front and back). They are available in many brands (Orbit, Hunter, Rainbird…) and a variety of places (Lowes, Home Depot, Amazon…). If you have set up a watering or irrigation system in your garden, you should already have these parts installed if not, you can purchase them online or at local retail stores. DO NOT throw away the plastic bags until you are done with soldering.Īdditionally, you need a sprinkler valve transformer (rated at 24VAC) and one or more sprinkler valves. Sometimes a couple of components may get stuck on the sticker. Before soldering, carefully put the components in a small container, box, or mint tin. Warning: electronic components are small and easy to lose. ![]() Bag 1 contains ICs and IC sockets bag 2 contains diodes, resistors, capacitors, pushbuttons, pin headers, inductors, crystals bag 3 contains triacs, screw terminals, Ethernet connector, USB connector, and case screws. As the picture shows, the kit includes the PCB, bags of components, LCD, and the project case. The parts list can be found on this page. The kit includes all components you need to build OpenSprinkler v1.3u. Part 1: Power Supply and USB Programmer.( Note: all images below are ‘clickable’, in order for you to see the full-resolution details.
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